Bodegas Altergo Dominio de Sexmil 2005 Tierra del Vino de Zamora, Spain 100% Tempranillo This jumps out of the glass and clonks you in the face with a sack of black cherries, berries and forest floor. Soft and sensual with massive tannins to finish. November 2009

Bodegas Alinde Reflejo de Alinde 2007 Toro Spain Soft, cherry aromas, meat, a touch of cola bottle and a distinctive earthy/mousiness. Muted flavours  on a palate which, though clearly fading, displays a deliciously svelte texture, pinotesque, with super soft, sweet tannin.  Drink up. September 2012

Bodegas Alto Alberche 7 Navas Seleccion 2006 Castillo y Leon, Spain This honks of an old, dusty carpet with some black pepper. Some raspberry fruit offers itself after aeration. Grappa-like on the palate with a long, sweet finish. November 2009

Bodegas Ateca Honoro Vera Garnacha 2011 Calatayud, Spain Black forest gateau aromas. Concentrated, soft and easy. Sweet fruit, unctuous, not overly complex but delicious and tremendous value. November 2012

Bodegas Antano Alta Plata Verdejo Viura 2009 Rueda, Spain Pineapple, bannana sweets and honeysuckle. Quite peachy palate. A touch dilute, but fresh and fairly lively. November 2009

Bodegas Antano Verdejo 2008 Rueda, Spain Mango, guava and kiwi. A real tropical fruit salad of a wine. Nice weight with a strange bitterness. November 2009

Bodegas Anzil Vendemia Seleccion 2004 Toro, Spain Vanilla aromas and a hint of gas leak. The fruit all black and blueberries. Pretty classy stuff. Broody and meaty. Perhaps lacks a bit of vitality? November 2009   

Bodegas Arzuaga Amaya 2006 Ribera del Duero, Spain Lavender scented with spice blackberry and cherry. Rich and yet balanced. An absolute beauty. November 2009

Bodegas Arzuaga Crianza 2007 Ribera del Duero, Spain There's clearly a dollop of Merlot in here. Chocolate aromas with lavender and pine. Blackberries with good minerality to boot. Well crafted stuff. November 2009

Bodegas Arzuaga Fan D'Oro 2007 Ribera del Duero, Spain Apples and peaches backed up by stunning French oak aromas. Rich yet refined in texture with a chalky finish. Quite the surprise. Chardonnay and 5-10% Blanco del Pais. November 2009

Bodegas Barbadillo Tesco Finest Fino NV Jerez, Spain Vigorously saline with subtle floral aspects. Hazelnut and Chinese rice wine with a nice salty kick. May 2012

Bodegas Barbadillo Tesco Finest Manzanilla NV Jerez, Spain A fine, fresh style with plenty of bite. November 2012

Bodegas Borsao Tres Picos 2006 Campo de Borja, Spain What a complex nose for the price. Spicy, herbaceous and floral. Intense cherry fruit. Sexy. Very, very naughty. January 2009

Bodegas Cambrico 575 Uvas 2008 Sierra de Salamanca, Spain A blend of Tempranillo, Rufete and Calabres (the local clone of Garnacha). Balsamic with liquorice, plus blackberry and raspberry fruit. Liquorice bootlace on the palate leading to a spiced wood finish. The tannins are soft and sweet. November 2009

Bodegas Cambrico Rufete 2005 Sierra de Salamanca, Spain 21 months in oak. Some of the vines are 100+ years old yielding only 4 or 5 small clusters of grape per vine. Unfined, unfiltered. The scents of the cellar. New oak, a subtle mustiness and earth. Strawberries in balsamic vinegar. Dill and mint. Very fresh in the mouth hiding is 15% alcohol well behind layered red berry fruit, herbs and an electric finish that suggests aniseed ball. So exciting and totally unique. Extraordinary. A true mountain wine. November 2009

Bodegas Cambrico Tempranillo 2006 Sierra de Salamanca, Spain A pine forest. Fresh, sweet cherry. Though the oak is quite pronounced a very fresh, elegant style of Tempranillo. November 2009

Bodegas Cambrico Vinas del Cambrico 2010 Sierra de Salamanca, Spain. 8,892 bottles. Muck-spreader , thyme and liquorice. Black cherry liquor. Intense and energetic. Concentrated and modern but very pure and natural. November 2012

Bodegas CYAN Prestigio 2004 Toro, Spain A bit piggy; meat and sty. This mingles with black berry fruit, espresso and liquorice. Aggressive tannins which dry a touch. November 2009

Bodegas Emina Verdejo 2008 Rueda, Spain Fruit salad sweets. Pineapple. Green around the edges. Delicate and floral with violets. Good weight though a little weak on the finish. November 2009

Bodegas Emina Prestigio 2006 Rueda, Spain A lot of fruit to get your nose into here. Blueberries, blackberries and currants with a hint of clove. A touch stewed with quite aggressive tannin at present. Enough acidity to last the course? November 2009

Bodegas Eurocampo Verde Arbil Crianza 2005 Arlanza, Spain 100% Tempranillo. 9,000 bottles produced. Very well defined, pure blueberry fruit and spice. Some dried herbs and a lovely, lingering sandalwood finish. Tannins and acid all balanced. Magic, with the suggestion of more to come. November 2009

Bodegas Estefania Tilenus Crianza Mencia 2005 Bierzo, Spain Earth with spice; black pepper and clove. Violets. Blackberry fruit with raspberry bootlace. Gnarly, a little awkward, but concentrated, quite delicious and hope for the future, once the oak intergrates better. A pleasure with garlic-rubbed roast lamb. February 2013

Bodegas Estefania Tielnus Pieros 2002 Bierzo, Spain 100% Mencia Inky black with a red hue.  Profound aromas of blackcurrant, graphite and pencil shavings. Remarkably left-banky. So soft and elegant with fruit, minerals and herbs all intertwined with smokey chocolate. November 2009

Bodegas Madai Godello 2007 Bierzo, Spain Oxidative, saline, fino sherryesque aromas. Old, moist bread and rusty nails. Terrific texture, real character. Courgette and flat vintage champagne. Marzipan. November 2009

Bodegas Madai Godello 2008 Bierzo, Spain Apricots, limes and peach blossom. Elegant and feminine like and elegant female. It is also bloody nice. November 2009

Bodegas Matarromera Crianza 2006 Ribera del Duero, Spain 50 year old Tempranillo vines. Very deep purple. Coffee cream, blueberry pancakes and cinnammon. Crushed coriander seeds. Rich, round and sweet. Very impressive indeed. Satsuma peel. November 2009

Bodegas Orben 2006 Rioja, Spain Soil, pencil shavings and liquorice. Blackberry. Deep and fascinating. This draws you in. Seemless. Terrific balance. Not flashy, not austere, bang on. December 2012 

Bodegas Pesquera Janus Gran Reserva 2003 Ribera del Duero, Spain This is totally different. Something about it harks to Chateau Musar. Perhaps the flirtation with VA? So many layers and what depth of flavour! Mulberry, wood, earth and cigars with dried bay leaf. Smoky black fruits on the palate and an absolutely monster finish. November 2009

Bodegas Prado Rey Roble 2007 Ribera del Duero, Spain Plummy and lightly smokey with a slight animalistic edge. Black fruit focused palate of cherry and blackberry. A delight. November 2009

Bodegas Prado Rey Roble 2008 Ribera del Duero, Spain I think this is a bit bretty, but for me it works. A bit of saddle leather and sinky stable. Blackberry and cherry fruit. November 2009

Bodegas Prado Rey Crianza 2005 Ribera del Duero, Spain Blackberry jam. Spice and balsamic vinegar. Very rounded palate. Almost too rounded? November 2009

Bodegas Prado Rey Gran Reserva 2004 Ribera del Duero, Spain This is pretty raisany. The wood is old and murky rather than sweet and endearing. November 2009

Bodegas Prado Rey Elite 2005 Ribera del Duero, Spain Balsamic vinegar and toffee apple. Rich blackberry fruit and mincemeat. Lovely texture. Sculpted. November 2009

Bodegas Prado Rey PR3 Verdejo 2007 Rueda, Spain Petrol station forecourt! Pineapple tart tatin and kiwi. Clean and cutting. Weird but quite wonderful. November 2009

Bodegas Prado Rey PR3 Verdejo 2008 Rueda, Spain Peach Melba. A hint of roasted chesnuts. Banana split. Waxy with fresh acidity. November 2009

Bodegas Prado Rey Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Rueda, Spain 30 g/l RS. No thank you. November 2009

Bodegas Prado Rey Rose 2008 Ribera del Duero, Spain Red cherry sweets, cherry coke. Strawberry cheesecake. Genuine depth and character. November 2009

Bodegas Prado Rey Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Rueda, Spain Green mango peel, tomato leaf and wet grass. A twist of lemon peel with some oyster shell. November 2009

Bodegas Prado Rey Verdejo 2008 Rueda, Spain Lime and grapefruit juice with underlying hints of more tropical fruit. A salty character with a lemon/lime palate. Fresh and vivacious. November 2009

Bodegas Ribera de Pelazos Abadengo 2004 Arribes del Duero, Spain 100% Juan Garcia. A touch of medicine cabinet and overripe Kiwi. Blackcurrants, chocolate and clove. November 2009

Bodegas SAT Las Niebles Cesar Principe 2006 Cigales, Spain  Black cherry, raspberries and caramel. Earthy with some sweet shaved coconut. Powerful, raw and gamey. November 2009

Bodegas Sinforiano Rosado 2009 Cigales, Spain 100% Tempranillo Strawberry bootlace. White pepper with a spritzy quality. Dry, peppery finish. November 2009

Bodegas Sonsierra Reserva 2006 Rioja, Spain A bit oxidised, but then this has been open a few days. Blackenrries and leather. Good concentration and grip. Could be fresher. August 2012

Bodegas Terne Saxum Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Rueda, Spain Touch of oak here. Buttered corn on the cob. Not much varietal character though, slightly vegetal. Buttered asparagus and banana skin. November 2009

Bodegas Valdelosfrailes Rosada 2008 Cigales, Spain No, thank you. November 2009

Bodegas Valdelosfrailes Vendimia Seleccionada 2008 Cigales, Spain From a vineyard planted in 1998. Yields of 4 tonnes p/ha. 100% Tempranillo. Mulberry fruit and a bit earthy. Fig tarts. Full of bounce and vitality. November 2009

Bodegas Villacezan Verdejo 2009 Tierra de Leon, Spain Pear drop, lavender, lime juice. More pear and a splash of orange on the palate. High acidity. Refreshing, with a dash of aniseed ball. November 2009

Bodegas Villacezan Verdejo/Albarin 2009 50/50. Violets and peach. Rose petal. Under-ripe nectarine. Some weight. High acid.

Casa e l'Ermita Bianco Dulce 2006 Jumilla, Spain Slightly oxidized? Candied pineapple. Oak. Sweet vanilla and mango. Subtle vanilla oak finish. Just enough acidity to stop it cloying. January 2009

Casa de l'Ermita Crianza 2005 Jumilla, Spain Very closed. A little balsamic and vanilla oak. Dried fruits. Decant in advance next time. May 2009

Casa de l'Ermita Crianza 2005 Jumilla, Spain Lots of menthol. Black cherry and balsamic vinegar. Quite rich vanilla oak. A touch rustic. Christmas cake and caramel. April 2009

Casa de L’Ermita Crianza 2005 Jumilla, Spain Bags of spice; cloves and cinnamon. Black cherry scented. Balsamic too. Choclolate dipped raisins. Rustic though rounds out in time. July 2009  

Cellers Capafons-Osso Masia Esplanes 1996 Montsant, Spain Charred wood. Leather, dried bay leaf and smoky black cherry fruit. Quite Rhoney. Sandalwood. Some alcoholic heat. Rounded and rich with more herbs and dark fruit. Grainy tannins give it a rustic personality. June 2009

Coco i Foto Jaspi Negre 2009 Montsant, Spain 45% Garnatxa, 25% Carinyena, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Sira. Liquorice and plum jam aromas with roasted coffee bean, but without the complex earthy aromas one might associate with the finest wines from this part of Spain. Warm and juicy, though would benefit from a touch more stuffing. barrel influenced finish of vanilla, spice and wood. March 2013

Consigna Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 La Mancha, Spain A noticebale lack of colour for what professes to be a product of squished Cabernet Sauvignon. Underripe blackcurrant fruit, with a powerfuly leafy character. More of the same on the palate where the fruit is green and astringent. To quote Blackadder "it started badly, it tailed off a little in the middle and the less said about the end the better — but apart from that it was excellent." April 2009

Domini de la Cartoixa Formiga 2009 Priorat, Spain Lifted aromatics of strawberries and blackberry jam. Soil and moss covered rocks. Intensity in aroma, colour and flavour, but never big or showy, with an edgy Rhone-like character. Such a fine job with lightly grainy tannins. Singing tonight and likely to offer more in the future. February 2013

El Escoses Volante El Puno Blanco 2010 Calatayud, Spain 100% Viognier. Roses Lime Cordial in abundance. Toast with apricot jam and a touch of ginger biscuit. Something a bit charred on the palate. Not over the top, toasty oak. Vibrant, exciting.  September 2012

El Escoses Volante El Puno Blanco 2010 Calatayud, Spain This still reeks of Roses Lime Cordial and buttered toast. Concentrated, vibrant and I adore its uniqueness, but if you had £20+ to splash would this be the chap to persuade you? October 2012

El Escoses Volante El Puno Tinto 2010 Calatayud, Spain Grenache. Very pure, defined nose. Blueberry, kirsch, a touch of wood. Good depth, though a little bit grainy. Expected more.  September 2012

El Escoses Volante Papa Luna 2009 Catalayud, Spain Raspberry liquor and methane. White pepper, bags of fruit. Good value. June 2012

Familia Pacheco Monastrell Syrah 2011 Jumilla, Spain Leather and spice. Very lively spicy berry palate. Rather rustic.  September 2012

Faustino Rivero Ulecia Rioja Reserva 2005 Rioja Spain 85% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha. Gentle, aromatics of smoke, earth with very subtle mixed berry fruit and quite obvious, sweet American oak. The palate is soft textured with hints of tar, but the fruit has pretty much jumped ship. Drink up. January 2013

Finca Villacreces 2006 Ribera del Duero, Spain Still quite primary blackberry fruit with a dusty/earthiness. Christmas pud and hoisin sauce. The fruit stays just the right side of baked. Excellent concentration with a very pleasant transparency. Rich chocolate finish. October 2012

Little House Crianza 2006 Arribes del Duero, Spain Juan Garcia, Tempranillo, Rufete. Menthol , sweet cherry, violets and raspberry bootlace. Smooth and soft with richness and purity . Good length and concentration with a fresh finish. A touch sweet? Who cares? November 2012

Macia Batle Reserva Privada 2007 Majorca, Spain Manto Negro, Callet and Cabernet Sauvignon from 40 year old vines. 14 months in oak. Sweet, dark berry fruit, not Jammy. Not boozy or hot though it clearly comes from a warm region. Balsamic vinegar drizzled over blackberries. Sweet/sour. Roasted coffee. Broody, dense and layered. December 2012

Masias D'Avinyo Abadal Picapoll 2008 Pla de Bages, Spain This is unusual. Picapool is an indigenous grape undergoing restoration in the region, not to be confused with French varietal Picpoul. A little Verdejoesque. Banana sweets, jasmine tea, hazelnuts and coconut shaving. The palate reminds one of warm climate Viognier with it's oily texture, creme fraiche and peach. Some fennel enters itself into the equation. Unusual and delicious. January 2010

Masias D'Avinyo Abadal Picapoll 2008 Pla de Bages, Spain A creamy buttery nature to the nose with roasted nuts and charred toast. Jasmine, oil seed rape and rose petals. Refreshing acidity. May 2009

Masias D'Avinyo Abadal Picapoll 2008 Pla de Bages, Spain Roasted nuts and lemon curd. Jasmine and honeysuckle. Peachy with a lemon freshness and a hint of fennel. July 2009

Masias D'Avinyo Merlot 5 2005 Pla de Bages, Spain Initially the 14.5% alcohol is quite noticeable. Jammy and sweet with some dried herb undertones. The palate is pure pleasure. Silky tannins, ripe berry and plum fruit. Unctuous with a long finish. Shame about the slight booziness because this is great. May 2009 

Masias D'Avinyo Abadal 5 Merlot 2005 Pla de Bages, Spain Prunes and stewed plums. A touch on the boozy side but silky and concentrated with a rich chocolate finish. July 2009

Masias D'Avinyo Seleccion 2005 Pla de Bages, Spain Quite restrained. Notes of dried herbs, Chinese spice and rich cassis and blackberry fruit. Very good concentraion of fruit. The tannins are a little grainy and need to intergrate better to take this up a notch. But long and delicious notheless. May 2009 

Palacio de Bornos Verdejo 2011 Rueda, Spain A definite whiff of the pub urinals, which I find disconcertingly appealing, nostalgic almost. Violets and grapefruit with some baked bread, but the palate is a little flat and uninspiring. Would appeal to Sauvignon fans I imagine, but not the finest ever expression of Verdejo. February 2013

Pruno Finca Villacreces 2009 Ribera del Duero, Spain The fruit is sweet, but there is an austere edge to this wine, Bordeaux-like but with all the intensity, freshness, ripeness and general sex of Ribera, but, critically, not overblown or jammy, There is fruitcake, soil and a lifting floral edge to this cracker which retails for around £15. An underlying meatiness brings further depth. Excellent balance and length. Drink now, or keep if you can. December 2012

Pruno Finca Villacreces 2010 Ribera del Duero, Spain Thick, creamy vanilla nose. Deep, concentrated, crammed with black fruit flavour and spice. Perhaps lacks vitality? Opulent and more flashy than the 09, but is it the tastier wine? Not sure. Seriously good though. December 2012

Ramiro Wine Cellar Ramiro's 2006 Tierra de Castilla y Leon, Spain This is pretty special wine. November 2009

Telmo Rodriguez Al Muvedre 2010 Alicante, Spain Earth and underbrush, the fruit is quite jammy but the wine does not suffer for it. Quite rustic, good depth of dark berry flavour with a quite pronounced note of clove. March 2013

Vega del Castillo Garnacha Cepas Viejas2011 Navarra, Spain Apparently from 60+ year old Garnacha vines. White pepper, and red wine gravy. Textured with good depth of raspberry and redcurrant fruit on the palate. Finishes a bit sweet and synthetic. Good glugger. February 2013

Vinya Nostra Macabeo Airen NV Spain Grass, stinging nettle and wet bracken. White pepper and rat poison. Quite neutral palate.  A bit of pear and white pepper. Use sparingly. May 2009